Going to Vietnam as a holiday destination requires the visitor to forget about the unfortunate war waged by the Americans following on from the equally unfortunate colonial war fought by the French. Instead, think of Vietnam today as a place which still has traces of its French connection but is now a unique tourist destination which seriously works at keeping the tourist happy.
In the scope of a short article it is not possible to cover the whole of Vietnam, so we will concentrate on Ho Chi Minh City, named after the great statesman who declared the independence of the country in 1954. If you take a holiday in Vietnam you will almost certainly fly in to Ho Chi Minh and spend a day or so there.

Which is fine, for this is quite a wonderful city to visit. It still has many of the old French buildings and tree-lined streets. The war is remembered by museums and displays which are, understandably, very anti-American. But a more recent development is the emergence of exceptional hotels, restaurants and shops. Many of them have been opened by Vietnamese and French people (or their children) who left during the worst of the turmoil and have returned to make a go of it. It's a great mix of people.
 

Practical information

In money terms, the US dollar works as the alternative currency to the Vietnamese dong. Every shop and restaurant accepts dollars and nobody seems to shaft you on the exchange rate. The best way to deal with money is to take US dollars in mostly small denominations and check what the official exchange rate is so you can keep in touch.  Ho Chi Minh place is basically a safe city, but, as in most place in the world, you should be careful, especially of pickpockets. There are a few beggars and hawkers on the streets and some of them are adept petty thievery, so pay attention to your wallet, purse and bag. Some work in teams – one distracts while the other extracts. Don't leave handbags open and carry them in the French style slung across your front.  You can get around town using cyclos (pedal bikes with a two-seater basket in front) and they are a perfect viewing platform and ideal for taking videos. But it's best to use them during daylight hours and with others rather than alone.

Cabs are good and inexpensive, but make sure they put the meter on and make sure you understand the price on the meter. In this, it is like Bangkok. Cab drivers prefer to have the meter off and quote a price like '$10, okay?' Not okay. Tell them firmly you want the meter on. They will smile and switch it on.

To get orientated, first take a basic city tour. That way, you will also get to see the main tourist attractions without wasting too much time on them. Make sure the tour includes one of the better Chinese temples in the Cholon district, the old Chinatown.

Then there is Cao Dai Temple – Tay Ninh. Many tour operators try to link this up with a trip to the Cu Chi tunnels but that is far too much to cope with in one day. It is well worth the trip - about an hour and a half away - for the Cao Dai is an odd religious sect which has Victor Hugo and Joan of Arc among its many 'gods'. Their temple and the regalia are spectacular. If possible, try to time your visit when they are holding a ceremony. It is totally astounding.

There are, of course, many spas in Ho Chi Minh and they are excellent and recommended. But there is, as it were, a lesser version. For men there is an old fashioned type of barber shop called 'Hot Toc'. They offer superb pampering. After sightseeing in the heat of the day try a shampoo and scalp massage (usually spreading down to the shoulders). Add on a manicure or pedicure and even a facial. Inexpensive. Think of it as a mini-spa treatment. Wonderful.

All the usual international hotel chains are now represented in Ho Chi Minh city but, for some, it is more interesting to stay in a hotel that has some historic aspect. The government took over all the best historic hotels (Continental Palace, Majestic, Royal and so on) after 1975 and did them up but lost their soul. Despite the distinctly colonial environment, the traditional colonial service does not exist and the bars and restaurants in them cannot be recommended.

The best alternative for an historic hotel is the Rex Hotel. This has been restored in classic 60's kitsch. Make sure you get a room facing the street. The staffs are exceptional and there is a wonderful atmosphere. The buffet breakfast is great, especially the selection of freshly prepared Vietnamese noodles.  Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers at 88 Dong Khoi Street is a luxury hotel well worth checking out. The terrace of the Signature Restaurant on level 23 provides lovely views of the whole city, and the French food on offer is superb. The MOJO café next to the Gucci store has the feel of a classy street café, and is the perfect place for a light lunch with fresh fruit juice under a big sun umbrella. Meanwhile, Aqua Day Spa located on level 5, next to the 17-meter lap pool, is a place both calming and serene featuring morning yoga classes and poolside sunset foot massage.   

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