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I am the queen of the sweet tooth brigade. My eyes jump straight to the dessert selection on any menu and if it is a question of a starter and a main course or a main and dessert, there is simply no need to deliberate.
But what of this growing trend of low calorie desserts? Doesn’t missing out on all that satisfying gooey goodness defeat the point of a good pudding? Can life have any meaning if there is only a measly fruit salad topped with a small meringue if you are lucky, and no cream?
Healthy options are becoming an increasingly popular feature on the menus of many restaurants as we become more conscious of the need to avoid piling on the pounds. But are they really as tasty as their calorie-driven alternatives? I looked at five different restaurants in Shanghai, Hong Kong and Beijing to find out.
BRIX 12
BRIX 12 provides a bright airy retreat from the busy shops on Shanghai’s Huaihai Road with a wide selection of over twenty seasonal desserts and refreshing drinks such as green apple iced tea. The dessert parlor is run by Steven Smith, a friendly, laid-back Californian guy who trained as a chef in Switzerland, France and Spain, and Pastry Chef Andrew Wang who previously worked at St. Regis Hotel, Shanghai.
Desserts are created according to the Brix scale which measures the sugar content in food. An apple’s sugar level measures 12 on the scale, hence the bistro’s name. The key is not necessarily low calories, but natural sugar content. Traditional choices such as tiramisu, panna cotta and cheesecake feature, but the moderate portions and the fact that many are fruit-based turn them into a lighter option for body conscious diners.
The peppermint and aloe panna cotta (RMB 36) is a light and refreshing variation on what can sometimes be a rich dessert. The mint is not too overpowering and small slithers of aloe are hidden at the bottom with delicate slices of lightly caramelized apple on the side.
Cheesecake is a staple on any dessert menu but not a choice you would necessarily assume to be healthy. Priced at RMB 36, this one comes with a little pot of vanilla sauce to pour over it and slices of tangy caramelized orange. The topping on the cookie crust is smooth and creamy but not too rich.
As a firm opponent of anything made of rice disguising itself as something sweet, I was surprised by the sticky black rice ice premium (RMB 38) with its hints of coconut and a satisfying crystalline crunch. Triangle ice slices balance in between thin pastry crisps accompanied by melon chunks, papaya and berries – a satisfying choice, refreshing and light.
BRIX 12
G112, Hong Kong New World Plaza, 300 Huaihai Zhong Road, Shanghai
Tel: + 86 21 6335 3398 / 3368 6198
Jean Georges
Three on the Bund on Shanghai’s historical waterfront offers a few healthy dessert options at Jean Georges and Whampoa Club.
Slightly peeved that I was not writing about Jean Georges’ famous indulgent cakes, crème brûlée and parfaits, I settled instead on vegetable flavored sorbets. But with the restaurant’s reputation of creating high quality and innovative cuisine, I suspected they would not disappoint.
Raspberry-bell pepper, celery, tomato water and pumpkin varieties of sorbet are offered on the bar menu (RMB 58). These are not necessarily elements usually considered as dessert material, but when pureed or juiced and modified with various ingredients such as sugar, lemon juice and salt by pastry chef Jason Casey, they work. “They’re in between a dessert and something savory. They definitely have their place on the menu and are more of an experience,” he explains. The tomato water sorbet, made from sugar and baby tomato consommé, has a surprisingly intense sweet flavor, and the raspberry-bell pepper is ideal for satisfying a sweet tooth.
Another option is the tropical fruit, peppered-yogurt sorbet and hibiscus, one of four passion fruit-themed selections which make up a dessert tasting plate (RMB 108). This is no measly fruit salad; it is a substantial blend of passion fruit, mango and pineapple topped with a blob of sorbet, a delicate bright red hibiscus jelly and a light passion fruit batter swirl that crushes into several pieces when you dig your spoon in. An excellent option to prove to food luddites like myself that fruit salad is a highly underrated dessert.
Jean Georges
4F, Three on the Bund, No. 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Road with Guandong Road, Shanghai
Tel: + 86 21 6321 7733
Harlan’s
Harlan’s in IFC Mall in Hong Kong is known as a popular place to try modern, classy yet unpretentious fare, mainly frequented by business people and those about town. They offer a few delicious sounding healthy options; mango cloud sorbet made from mango puree (HK$ 98), raspberry yoghurt cake (HK$ 98) and exotic fruits and berries on ice (HK$ 98).
Pastry Chef Leung Tung Shing says the healthy desserts are well received by customers. “Hong Kong is a leader in Asian dining trends due to its diverse population, including individuals who are well traveled and understand good quality food. They’re also paying lots more attention to their health than ever before.”
The restaurant tries not to use too much sugar or oil in its desserts and is planning to come up with further healthy options, including the use of more organic ingredients, which Tung says is a growing trend in Hong Kong.
Harlan’s
Shop 2075, Podium Level Two, ifc Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong
Tel: + 852 2805 0566
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